The Waiting Game

Part of every Everest expedition involves waiting. 60+ days of expedition usually yields 20 days of movement on the mountain. Partly because of weather, partly because of needed rest at altitude and partly because of hangovers, people stay where they are on the mountain for a day or two.

The acclimatization period is over. The team is recovered from the challenges of adapting the body to 23000 feet and above. Before our rest many were suffering coughs, colds, bronchitis, general fatigue and some even had niggling injuries.

We descended to Shegar for some much needed rest and oxygen. Many of us took antibiotics to clear the system of any remaining issues before returning to Base Camp. The time in Shegar was much needed. Beds, fresh linens, hot water and a change of cuisine. Unfortunately we were chased back to Base Camp for the party Alex organized for the 9th, Russian Victory Day.

We returned to a very stressed out Alex, who had invited all of Base Camp to join. Beer, whiskey, cold cuts, dahlbaht… 40 scraggly-looking men and 5 women showed up for the party. Old Russian war songs eventually turned into a disco… The party went strong from 5-10 PM, with Dan Mazur, Jamie McGuiness, and Alex Abramov the most notable expedition leaders blazing the alcohol trail. There was also the 13 year old American and his family and an ex-international rugby player from the England squad… Interesting group.

The morning and afternoon of the 10th was needless to say meant for rest. Thank God the weather was not letting up, because all team members needed it.

Today we found out that the weather window called for the 15th will be a short window. The decision to not go now was made based on the following facts:

1. The ropes to the top are not laid yet
2. The entire group of unorganized expeditions will follow the Chinese up as they fix the ropes
3. There will be fewer people when the second window occurs and it will be mainly 7 Summits Club, Summit Climb, and Jamie McGuiness teams going then
4. The second window will be longer and the trail will be very well established

So the waiting game begins. We will most likely not move from Base Camp for at least 5 days. This is good and bad. The time begins to work on the brain. When you are idle on the mountain waiting, you are not expending much physical energy and strength, but it takes enormous staying power to keep from packing it in. Luckily this time we spend at BC rather than ABC, like we did in 2005.

What will we do during this time? Many will walk to the old Tillman camp to stay fit. Many are watching movies. Some are reading books. We are doing everything to keep our minds occupied and away from the higher altitudes as we wait for the monsoon to develop and push the fierce winds from Everest’s peak.

In any case, I am here still, safe, recovering, and missing home.

I would like to extend one last offer to the group to order a rock from Everest, to support Global H2O. This cause is more important to me than any summit, and I hope you all will go to our site and place an order for a branded T shirt or a rock from the North Face of Everest. (https://thewildefoundation.sagefundraisingonline.com/everest-for-clean-water).

Best,
Jamie