The Day of Days- Part III

It seemed too quick. We were at the exit cracks before 8:00 Chinese time, and within 15 minutes we had reached the first tents of the high camp. I was elated but exhausted. I grabbed the radio and said, “North Col, North Col, Alex this is Dickey, over.”

After a few minutes, the response came back, “Yes, go ahead Dickey.”

“Alex, Nima and I are safe at Camp III, over.”

Noel came on, “Hey, great work Big Nuts. Get some water and a short rest and keep moving to ABC.”

I sat in the tent reflecting, and what kept going through my head over and over was how fast it all went. The goal reached, box ticked, seven summits all but over. I cried several times on the way down, hyperventilating from the emotion. I had learned that my head is my biggest obstacle and Noel and Steve helped me through this lesson.

After 20 minutes in the high camp, I had soup and crackers and was ready to descend again. Nima was pushing me out of the tent and putting my crampons on. He wanted down quickly.

As we left Camp III, I looked back up at the summit. It reminded me of the classic photo out of Messner’s book The Crystal Horizon (a recount of his ascent without O2). The photo he took from Camp III could have been from this exact spot where my tent stood. We left camp and were quickly down on the flat traverse when we started to run into people coming from Camp II on the beginning of their summit push.

Everyone was asking about what happened. It was a great feeling. The adrenalin was coursing through my veins as every climber congratulated me on the way to Camp II. On the traverse I saw Laval and Mark, who were both extremely excited for me. Laval ended up continuing without oxygen all the way, becoming the first Canadian to reach the top of the world without supplemental oxygen.

They explained that Gavin was not far behind. When I saw him, I screamed, “Mr Big! Summit at all costs!” This had been the motto of our friends Eric and Scott on Cho Oyu. It was a constant joke throughout the whole journey.

Further along, I ran into the second team from 7 Summits Club. Everyone was happy. No one greeted me like Lena, though. Before the trip to the summit, I had discussed with her my fears, and she responded, “As soon as you start walking, you need to think of good things, like home or mama. Don’t worry so much. You will find your mental strength on the day, when you start.” I said to her in Russian, “I found my strength Lena. First time. I found it!” She hugged me as I cried and told me how happy she was for me.

It was less than two hours from Camp III to Camp II. I was struggling with the loose rocks and steep terrain, as my legs were really tired. Jamie McGuiness appeared at the top of Camp II. He had lots of questions as usual. I was wobbly and stumbled a bit. He laughed and said, “Don’t go falling off the mountain here.”

The stop in Camp II was short. I did not take off my crampons and I refused to go into the tent. I drank a little water and took in the sun. The day was perfectly still and clear. After three people passed, reminding me to put on my glasses, I pulled out my glacier glasses and set them on my head. After 5 minutes rest, we started to move again.

At the bottom of Camp II, Nima yelled at me and pointed to a tent, where a hand extended a mug filled with tea. Nikolai had been waiting for us boiling water. I knelt before the tent and he looked directly in my eyes and said, “Dickey, you did it!”

I responded with enthusiasm, “YES!!!!!!”

Nikolai is from the old school of Russian mountaineering, a legend among the climbing community. He was truly excited for my summit. I felt it when he leaned out in his purple fleece and gave me a Russian Bear Hug.

He asked if I wanted to come in and rest for a few minutes. I politely refused stating my orders to get to ABC asap. He nodded, understandingly.

The trip from Camp II to the North Col is the quickest part of the descent to ABC. Once on the snow slope, you can expect to be at the North Col in one hour. We Sherpa rapelled the whole way. I had to force Nima to slow down so I could enjoy the last moments on the upper part of the mountain.

The crowds ascending were huge. People were still congratulating me and most could not believe that I was so far down the mountain so fast. About mid-way down the snow slope I ran into Dan Mazur and the Summit Climb second team. Peter Kinloch, the Scott who died on the 26th, was a part of the group going up. Dan, climbing without oxygen to Camp II, congratulated me and told me that I have unfinished business and he expects to see me on Cho Oyu in the following year.

We again continued down. I was out of oxygen again, and began to feel dizzy, as this time the bottle went empty before I realized it and changed it out. I was amazed that I had 1 ½ bottles left to descend to ABC from roughly 7350 meters. We descended most of the snow slope unclipped but far enough away from the precipice where it was flat and less risk.

When we reached the North Col, the Romeros were packing to descend to ABC. I had caught up with the superstars which climbed to the top 24 hours before I had. I was so jazzed, that they laughed at me. “You have too much energy,” said Paul.

Jordan added, “Congratulations man. Great stuff!”

It felt great to be back at the North Col. A few meters down from the Americans were our tents. Alex was there waiting for me. He approached me and said, “James, you don’t know how happy I am for you. You finished your crrrrazy idea.” He hugged me and handed me the Satellite phone. “Now, call family.”

I could only remember my number in Raleigh, and when I called no one was home of course. I left a message and again broke down emotionally. The sherpas and kitchen boys were all staring at me as I wept next to Nima, trying to drink the juice that Dorje had prepared for me.

I began to remove my boots and down, in an attempt to dry my feet off and change into cooler equipment for the descent to ABC. It was lucky that this day was calm. My stuff was spread out on the glacier like a yard sale. The conditions were so different than the last time we sat in this place.

I pulled on my Gore-Tex and changed out my socks. I managed to have another bowl of soup, working hard to rehydrate myself before descending further. Alex asked Nima to take my extra clothes down, which he more than willingly did.

Descending the North Col, I again realized that the dream was coming to an end and there would be two tedious days left before base camp. By 17:00, I reached crampon point. Dawa was there with hot tea and cookies. The boys removed my crampons and harness and carried Nima’s bag to ABC. We were there before 6 PM.

At ABC, I was walking easily into camp. I was still using my supplemental oxygen and I felt very awake. ABC was empty though. All the residents were higher on the mountain either returning from the summit or on the push. Doctor Igor was there though and very happy to see me.

“James, the team from 2005. The circle is now closing. Where is Karo, you will be home soon.” I always had a hard time understanding his English. I understood though what he wanted to say. “Congratulations. I am so happy for you. How is your health?”

I explained to him that there was nothing to worry about. “Get soup and have beer. After I control blood pressure.” It was 130 over 85 from what I remember. “Do you have dexamethazone? Do you want to drink tablets?” I shook my head and told him I just wanted to sleep.

Chris was there to greet me as well. He was so good to remain with the team, though his summit bid ended at the North Col. He carried my gear to my tent for me and made sure I had food before I went to sleep.

At 7:00 PM, I crawled into my tent exhausted. A voice rang out, “James, radio!” It was Noel and Steve calling from the North Col.

“Hey big nuts. How about getting some beer chilled for your team mates. We will be there around 9.” I told him I would get the boys to wake me when he and Steve reached crampon point. I shut my eyes and everything went black. It was the deepest sleep of my life.

The next call came around midnight, but I was so gone that I heard nothing. During the night, I saw colors like no other dream with random items flashing through my head with no relevance whatsoever to the climb or my life. Candy canes, horses, cars… random. In the morning when I woke, I noticed the blackness within my brain. Emerging from the darkness of my deep slumber, the light of day was terribly bright. It was like being reborn.

I made my way to the breakfast table when Noel told me the sequence of events that caused the slow retreat from the summit. Andre had frozen his eyes and needed to be short roped down the 2nd Step. Steve had broken a few ribs having fallen a couple of times during the descent.

When I saw Steve, he was obviously in pain. It was a great reunion to be with the two guys that made the summit a possibility for me. They were both relatively healthy. I was happy that the two guys who had been so key in helping me keep my head together were alive and safe in ABC with me.