Dear Friends,
The team was up and moving at 7AM on the 11th. The bus took us to the plane in Kathmandu and we boarded with no issues. Air China flight 406 to Lhasa was late boarding and sat on the runway for at least 1 hour. The front of the Boeing was filled with Chinese businessmen, the back with tourists. Flying Air Cina was exactly what I had expected.
It was another hot, muggy hazy day in Kathmandu and it took the plane at least 30 minutes to clear the haze before we could see any of the Himalaya. Our flight path followed the southern edge of the mountains until suddenly we banked left and within minutes out the left window were Chr Oyu, Lohtse and Everest. It was a thrill to see the summit from 9800 meters, barely above the top of the mountain.
The entire plane was crowding to the left hand side leaning over each other to catch a glimpse and a few photos. Unfortunately we passed through the Himalaya quickly and what really impressed me was the change in altitude of the ground below. On the opposite side of the Himalaya, the ground was only 4500 meters below instead of 8000 meters. The contrast of the glaciers flowing into the reddish-brown plateau was spectacular.
As we approached Lhasa, the ride became a bit more bumpy but we landed at a seemingly new airport. Being at the back of the bus, we were the last off (which took a long while) and we were the last through Chinese customs (which took a really long while). Border control in China is a long process and this was no exception.
Our hotel in Lhasa was the best I have stayed in on any of my three Himalayan expeditions. The rooms were warm, water hot and the beds were white and clean. Very quickly, I unpacked and made my way out to look for a bank as I had no Chinese Yuan. The main road through Lhasa is like almost every other in Tibet except it was amazingly clean. Shops selling tractors, motorbikes, drinks, electronics were all still open.
This brings me to one interesting fact about China. The entire country, which is over 6000 kilometers across, has only 1 time zone; Beijing time. When we crossed into Tibet we gained the famous 2 hours and 15 minutes from Nepal. It means that the sun rises very late and sets very late. Its really weird to travel such a short distance (northeast) and gain so much time.
The first two bank machines were broken. I asked many people but no one (and I mean NO ONE) speaks English or any other western language for that matter, so I had to resort to sign language. The Chinese are usually very friendly, patient and try to be helpful. I on the other hand am impatient and have been easily frustrated by the fact that it is impossible to do anything on your own in China, unless you have a guide or translator.
I finally found the bank and was back in time for dinner with the group. An early night was in the cards for me as my flatmate in Kathmandu, Steve, had gotten up at 4:30 to ride with the truck to the border from Kathmandu.
The next day we all were up and off to the Potala Palace, the Winter Palace of the Dalai Lama. We had seen it coming into town, but its size doesn’t hit you until you are standing at the bottom of the hill looking up at the 70 meters of stone perched on the side of the hill in Lhasa.
We toured the palace for 3 hours, which was more than enough time. Walking up and down the precarious wooden stairs and looking at millions of Buddhas, it is easy to get lost in the 999 rooms of the Potala. I wont go into all the details but the construction was most impressive. With walls over 1 meter thick, the Chinese were unable to destroy the Potala during the 1959 “liberation” of Tibet. They did do damage, but the building withstood the artillery of the Chinese army.
The building is made up of the White and Red Palaces. The White Palace is the original construction around the cave where the first monks came. It is the main section and the heaviest because of its think walls. The Red Palace was completed later under the supervision of the 5th Dalai Lama and is made from bush branches, because they were concerned about the weight. Funny to think about the building being made of bush branches, but the construction is solid without draughts.
The saddest part of this tour was the fact that it was obvious that the monks were missing. Only 30 monks are living in the palace and it is really empty. People are seriously hoping that the Dalai Lama (name means “Ocean of Wisdom”) will return from India, as this is a huge crisis in the Tibetan history. The Penchen Lama is the one who is supposed to find the next reincarnation. He is in jail, and Beijing has appointed their own Penchen Lama who lives in Beijing and not accepted by the Buddhists. When the current Dalai Lama passes (he will be 75 this year), the question is, “Who will find his reincarnation?” Many are speculating the end of this ancient culture with the passing of His Holiness.
When we were finished, the team went for lunch in the old part of the city. It was interesting to watch the monks in their red robes walk by and the people returning from their rounds around the Potala Palace walking through the streets.
We were scheduled to see another monastery, but I decided I had had enough and wanted to get a nap and rest.
That evening Alex returned from his shopping spree. We were planning to leave in the morning and needed to get everyone sorted with mobile telephone numbers and internet access. This would prove to be a big mess.
The following morning everyone woke but some were seriously late getting to the jeeps which meant that we would start an hour later than planned. This really wound Alex up. At China mobile we all purchased SIM cards for the internet and to receive calls.
After two hours, we were out of there. I was thoroughly frustrated again by my lack of ability to communicate and as well by the fact that the Chinese have no idea what they are selling at China Mobile.
Lhasa-Shigatse is a 5 hour trip, but would be faster had it not been for the speed limit of 60 KMH (36 MPH). The road winds through the mountains a bit but the roads all seem pretty well built.
The issue is just with wind and falling rocks. As if on cue, to welcome us to the mountains there was a small slide on the road just ahead of us. The wind was very strong blowing dust and stones off the mountains. They were not huge stones, but large enough to kill someone.
The landscape was beautiful though the raw nature has been removed thanks to the highway. As well, the valleys, which are giant dust bowls, have been planted with saplings by the Chinese. They are constantly trying to dominate nature and for good and bad new trees were being planted everywhere along the roads we traveled. (Trees never really existed in these areas, at least not in the quantity that we saw)
We arrived in Shigatse just before dinner, and our hotel was practically across the street from the monastery there. Shigatse is the #2 city of Tibet and was home to the Penchen Lama before his arrest. The monastery is not as tall as the Potala Palace but equally as beautiful and impressive in its size.
We did not stay long in Shigatse as we had to meet the trucks which left Kathmandu for base camp today in Shegar, which is where we are now. The landscape was more of the same, but the towns get smaller and smaller and the accommodation more Spartan.
Along the way we crossed two passes; the first was 4800 meters and the second over 5200 meters. The team all got out of the jeeps and climbed up some small hills next to the passes and we stayed to help acclimatize better. On the way from the high pass to Shegar, we had our first view of Everest North and Cho Oyu. All I could say was “Wow!” and I had seen both before. They looked huge and its was obviously raging at the top as the crystals were creating a huge trail from the summit like a banner. It was beautiful.
So now we are all in Shegar, where we plan to spend tonight and tomorrow night. We will see the monastery and spend some time walking up the hill on which it sits. The day after tomorrow, we take up our semi-permanent residence at Base Camp North, 5200 meters. I am very excited for all of us!
As I always do, I would like to remind everyone, that this is for a charity, and I hope you will contribute to the cause in one way or another; either through volunteering some time, donations or simply by spreading the word about Global H2O. You can find everything you need to know at www.globalh2o.org. I hope that you will pay the site a visit.
Best Regards,
Jamie
(To view some of the pictures click here)
